In between Igatpuri and Maleshej region, Sahyadri ranges are in their extreme form; tall cliffs, deep ravines, heavy monsoon rain, roaring wind and its mystic aloofness. Harishchandragad is situated in such a wilderness. For years it attracted trekkers and devotees alike.
There are many routes to reach Harishchandragad; the easier one is from Village Pachanai, situated at the north foot of the mountain. The other one is from village Khireshwar which is situated at south side foot of the mountain. This route is little tedious compared to Pachanai route, but it is also more popular among trekker community, as it is easily accessible from Mumbai or Pune. Few others are, “Nali chi vat” from Village Sawarne at the foot of Malshej ghat and one from Sadhale ghat, which is not so easy, mostly opted by seasoned trekkers for the sake of thrill, also it requires some experience of rock climbing and use of rope. I decided to take khireshwar route.
It was nearly two hours since, “Alephata” ST bus left Kalyan depot at 7 am; a continuous drone of Diesel engine of this state transport’s bus made me slightly drowsy, while it negotiated winding road and steep ascends of Malshejghat. Suddenly I was awakened by a shriek shout of conductor, “Khubiphata...Khubiphata”. That was my destination! I collected my backpack and rushed to the door; being request halt, bus stop there just to drop passengers.
A cool breeze of plateau greeted me with a promise of exciting day ahead; but to my amazement, a thick fog had already settled on it! During monsoon people come here to enjoy fog and rain but this was the most unseasonal! Due to poor visibility and totally confused; I hurriedly crossed the road and headed to the nearby tea tapari (shop). In this weather, cup of hot tea was the must! This shop is regularly frequented by trekkers, so shopkeeper knew all their needs and always tries to oblige. He advised me to wait till fog recede, dampening my initial enthusiasm. But there was nothing else I could do than to wait!
I checked my watch, it was 9 am, I had already gulped 3 cups of tea; still no sign of fog to recede. I was really bored to sit there and do nothing. Finally, I decided to move against the advice of shop keeper. He was worried but came out and showed me the direction to the Khireshwar village. Keeping in mind his advice, not to leave the “prominent” and used trail, I started my trek. In the beginning, I covered much of the distance fairly quickly to arrive at the first land mark of a small pond as described by him. Even though fog was still there, I could see the track and was following it carefully. With that initial success I regained my confidence and increased my walking pace. I was very much happy that everything was alright and expected to reach khireshwar in half an hour. But that was not going to happen, after 15 minutes of walk, I arrived to a junction, where a prominent trail headed to left and other, less used one turned towards the right. This was confusing situation as my internal navigator was telling me to take right turn but, common sense was shouting to follow prominent trail which was heading left side! Poor visibility and no one in sight to ask, I got totally confused. Finally decided to use common sense and took the prominent one. From here, I expected to reach Khireshwar within 15 minutes but actually I walked nearly half an hour in that opaqueness, almost blindfolded! Still I couldn't see any sign of Khireshwar or any other village nearby! Moreover, as I continue to walk further, the plateau got more desolated! First time since I left Khubi Phata, a fear crept in my mind, probably I might be lost! I desperately needed someone to show me the right path. In that desperation, I decided to climb a distant mound to get some clue! When I reached on the top, I got the shock of my life! Instead of village or any settlement nearby, there was a deep valley ahead of me. Now I realized that I took an exactly opposite track. I came to the edge of the plateau towards malshejghat. Now confirmed, I lost my way! But still I could not guess why the trail to this edge, where no habitat exists is so used one, who used it and what for? I had to wait to get an answer to that puzzle!
I decided to return back to the pond, where I left the other trail. Nearly 15 minutes I walked in the reverse direction, but still the pond was not in sight, I could not find it. I shuddered. What is happening? Am I trapped in something called, “Ranbhooli “, where confused trekker keep encircling the trail in thicket? But this was not a jungle, an empty plane! I wiped off sweat from my forehead and decided to sit and take some rest for a while. Now I really started feeling very low and all negative thoughts gathered in my mind. I lost hope to complete this trek successfully. Finally, I was up with my sack, to make one more attempt to find the way. To my relief, I noticed, the thick fog started melting. Now I could see the faint out line of the Harishchandragad towards north and further right, a thin horizontal line started getting visible, which I immediately recognized as a bund of Pimpalgaon Joga dam. Now my orientation returned back. I guessed the location of the Khireshwar temple must be somewhere near the end of that dam line, which I had checked on Google Earth previous day. With renewed hope and surge of energy I walked 15 minutes further towards the direction of the wall, and to my great relief, I sighted the saffron flag of a temple flying high, exactly at the place where I expected! Yes, it was the temple of Nageshwar Mahadeo of khireshwar! After hurriedly crossing a thin semi dried stream, I entered the courtyard of the temple. That was very much emotional moment. I joined my hands for a prayer.
Located just at the entrance of the Khireshwar village, this Nageshwar Mahadeo temple is very ancient, dates back to the period of Yadav dynasty. Built in basalt stones, it has beautiful carvings. Particularly, carving of a Sheshshahi Vishnu at the entrance is very impressive. Sadly, most of the temple is in dilapidated condition, desperately calling for attention! A thought came to mind, if this temple is restored and surroundings developed properly, can fetch a lot of tourism to this place, being so close to the national highway. Since Mahashivaratri festival was few days ahead, there was some buzz around, many devotees arrived for the celebration. Preparation of mahaprasad, offerings to God, was going on at back yard of the temple. I finished my darshan, prayer and checked with folks, the direction and quickly proceeded to Tolar Pass. I followed the main road coming from Khubi phata, which straight goes up to foot of the mountain passing through the village. At present this road is under construction; once it is completed people can take their vehicles right up to the base of Tolar pass. Folks believe that development of this area and Harishchandragad depends on the completion and extension of this road up to Tolar pass. On my way, I stopped at Hotel Aishwarya, the only restaurant in the village and usual joint of trekker’s community! Since I was still in time, I ordered Kandapoha and cup of tea. I chat with the owner, who very well knows the requirements of trekkers and always tries to help them. He allowed me to call home on his Reliance land line phone as my Airtel cellphone was out of range as usual in mountain area. Over a cup of tea, he explained me, the reason to lose my trail en route to Khireshwar. Last month, there was a “Shooting” of Film director, Maniratnam’s forth coming movie, “Ravana”. That continued nearly for a month at the same location where I drifted! That explained the reason for the trail being so prominent to that desolate place at the edge of ravine. In the shop I filled up my water bottles and started ascend to Tolar Pass with two village kids as my guides. They were arranged by the restaurant owner. First time, when I saw them, I was not much impressed. In fact was reluctant to take with me, because they were too young, around 12 years old. So that was unnecessary responsibility and more over, I had doubt of their ability to guide me up to Harishchandragad. Since restaurant owner assured me about them and their parents also agreed to take them, I decided to go ahead.
As we started climb, soon I realized that both of them knew mountain trails very well and showed several shortcuts. In 45 minutes, we arrived at Tolar Pass; where we met a group of returning boys with cricket bat, stumps in their hands, obviously descending to Khireshwar. Seeing them, my guides got exited and explained me that they were visiting cricket team from Kothala village situated at the other side of pass; they came to play a match against Khireshwar team! Later my guides became more and more restless, all the time murmuring among themselves. Finally they announced that they were no more interested to come up to Harishchandragad, instead they would like to return back to Khireshwar for the match! That was really unfair of them but considering their tender ages, I swallowed my anger and relieved them after paying some money. Now onwards, I was on my own!
Trail up to the Tolar pass is straight forward but steep; mostly passes through thicket which gives some relief, but water is not available on the way, so trekkers must carry sufficient water with them. Afternoon sun was still not very hot, so I decided to have some rest and snacks, before heading for the most difficult section of ascend, that is exposed rock patch that start just after the pass. I sat near the idol of “tiger god” under a tree. As soon as I sat there, a tribal couple arrived there from Khireshwar with bucketful of groceries on their head. They seem tired but smiled at me, after exchanging initial pleasantries, “Ram...Ram” and some chat, I came to know their names, Balu and Sangita. They were originally from Kotala village. Both studied up to SSC, but being farmers could not leave their village for further education. I was amazed to know that, presently they stay in remote caves of Harishchandragad. Due to drought like situation of consecutive years forced them to leave their village and house behind and move to the mountain top with their cattle, where water and fodder is abundant. Nearly last couple years they are there!
I invited them to have some snacks with me. Being very curious to know their living style and experiences in mountain, I asked Balu, “Do you miss your normal social life? What about medicine, when you are sick?”
He replied, “We are so busy to manage our daily chores that we seldom get time to think about social life. As far as doctor is concern, we never suffered any sickness since we arrived here. Natural mineral water and pollution free fresh mountain air keep us healthy. I appreciated both of them for their courage and will to fight against all odds! Latter they invited me to visit their cave home, which I immediately accepted, even though I have to detour a little and spare an hour from my tight schedule. I was curious of their cave house!
With expert guidance from Balu and company, we ascended the difficult part of the exposed rock patch quickly and arrived on the top mountain plateau. From here a lengthy trail goes straight to the Harishchandreshwar temple, around couple of hours walk, but we left it and followed right hand side trail which pass through dense thicket and traversed north side face of the mountain to reach to their cave house! With in half an hour, we arrived at two naturally formed caves in the rock face, adjacent to each other. Left one is being used as their home while right side is being used as a stable for their cattle. I felt life must be pretty difficult at this remote location but they seem happy and used to it.
While I was observing and moving around their caves, Sangita quickly prepared a glass of cool buttermilk for me. They had very little belongings there; I noticed a wall clock kept standing in the middle of the cave! Jokingly I asked Balu, “Why you need wall clock here, when ‘Time’ is standstill in this remote isolated part of the mountain?”
He laughed and replied,” We are so engaged here that normally we don’t have time to look for ‘Time’! It is required, only when we have to visit ‘Outside’ world. last couple of days it was not working, so I managed to make it alright and adjusted time approximately, as per sun position, please check if it is correct as per your watch.” I checked my watch; it was showing 3.30pm, surprisingly almost accurate!
Balu was very much proud of his cave house. He said,” In the past these caves were inhabited by our ancestors for generations so now we are the owner.” I agreed with him as many of the Mahedeo Koli tribes migrated to these part of the Sahyadri several generations back, but I Jokingly asked, “Do you pay property tax of this accommodation?” He laughed and promptly replied,” Our landlord is, mother “Nature”, who never "tax", unless people are not polite to her!” I appreciated Balu again for his broad thinking.
Now it was time to move. Balu left to bring cattle back to the cave. He asked Sangita to guide me up to the main trail. She agreed to that and even was ready to come up to the main temple. I politely refused that, as it would have been late for her to return back to the cave before sun set. I thanked her for their hospitality, gave some gift and invited both of them to visit my house any time. Saying good bye to her, I proceeded to the temple on my own. Trail from here was straight forward, there was no chance to lose it but still I was anxious, as a memory of Khireshwar episode was still fresh in my mind! That’s why I increased my pace as sun was tilting towards west. I must have to reach the temple before it was dark and if possible I wanted to proceed to Kokankada to watch sunset from there. Plateau of the Harishchandragad is not flat; there is lot of uneven features like hills, which made walking tedious and tiring. After some couple of hours trek on that serpentine trail, at last I saw a saffron flag of Harichandreshwar temple at some distance towards west. That was the great relief. As I approached the temple complex, I saw a small makeshift shanty, having a tiny shop. I went there to enquire and take some rest. I was hoping to get some tea there. To my surprise, owner of the shop; Maruti Bharmal, a cheerful young man, not only prepared a cup of tea but also agreed to arrange for my dinner and night stay in his shop cum house. As I finished my tea, he enthusiastically asked me to rush for Kokankada before sunset and also agreed to accompany me. It was more than what I expected! So I dropped my backpack in his house and moved to Kokankada with him, my legs were already complaining, but I didn’t want to miss the opportunity to see the grand drama of the nature this evening, since stay at Harishchandragad was only for a night. Next morning; I had to leave for the Pachanai.
After 45 minute of tiring, serpentine walk, we emerged at the edge of a semicircular, majestic cliff, falling sharply 2000 feet down in the valley below. This cliff is called as Kokankada, as it faces towards Kokan, a narrow strip along the west coast. As soon as we arrived there, we were greeted by a powerful gust of wind; normally mild westerly winds gather velocity at the edges of cliff. Some times their forces make it difficult to stand near the cliff.
Golden red sun beam was sluggishly inching towards the haze of the horizon; suspense was mounting. Heavenly silence of the surrounding was intermittently disturbed by the roars of wind. Finally the moment ticked, with display of colorful celebration on the vast canvas of the sky, sun slowly dipped in the haze. Both of us were speechless for a while. This grand phenomenon transfixed us!
We walked along the cliff, admiring amazing views from different angles. As the sun disappeared, darkness slowly crept around, coolness of dusk started biting; we have to return back before it’s too dark. As we approached the temple complex, we descended right side of the hillock to visit some caves. There are some eight caves at the base of Taramati peak, the tallest peak of Harishchandragad. In the third cave from right have a beautiful, 6 feet high idol of Ganesha. Visiting trekkers generally use these caves for the overnight stay. Now all of them were crowded with devotees visiting for the forth coming Mahashivratri celebration. I was lucky that Maruti took care of my night stay.
On our way back to Maruti’s shanty, we visited the Vishnu tirtha pushkarni, a water cistern, decorated with rock carvings. I was tempted to take a dip there, but it was too cold. So I postponed my bath for the next morning! As we arrived, it was already dark. There is no electricity on Harishchandragad. Just for the Mahashivaratri, a small generator was arranged by Pachnai Grampanchayat, which was giving a feeble, dim yellow light enough to light only the courtyard of the temple. In that dim light now, worshipers started singing devotional songs (Bhajan) on the beats of drum.
Maruti’s wife arranged a dinner for us. It was simple, Bhakari, rice and Pithale but very tasty! During our discussion, I came to know that, normally very few people stay on Harishchandragad. Some times only temple priest is there. Now most of them have come to do business on the occasion of Mahashivratri. They mainly came from Pachnai village. After a sumptuous food, my aching body was demanding rest. I slipped in my sleeping bag and on the rhythmic sound of Bhajan emitting from the temple complex and smell of freshly prepared cow dung flooring, slowly drifted into sleep.
I woke up in the morning due to someone’s yelling sound, I startled and got up to see who was that. Some one was asking for Bidis, probably an early morning customer to Maruti’s shop! My watch was showing 7, time to wake up. It was biting cold in the morning. Taking bath in cold water was really a punishment, but once adjusted to the temperature, it was refreshing. Since I had to leave Harishchandragad early in the morning to catch the only bus leaving Pachanai at 11am, we rushed to the Temple. On our way Maruti told me, “Today onwards many devotees will start arriving for the forth coming Mahashivratri celebration; there will be a gathering of thousands of devotees at this place!” I was wondering, what will happen to sanitation when so many people arrive here! I had already seen some of them using back side of the temple as urinal! I remembered Balu, who was complaining of local politicians and their neglect to develop Harishchandragad as a tourist destination!
This magnificent temple was built in 9th century by then king Zanj, who also built series of Shiva’s temple in his Hindu dynasty. Harishchandreshwar temple attracts and charm visitors not only for its ancient past and its magnificent carvings in hard rock but also for its isolation and aloofness! If it is developed into a tourist attraction, would it still retain that charm?
After visiting the temple, we moved on a trail to the right side of the temple, crossing a dried stream, which is a source of river Mangal Ganga. Maruti told me, during rainy days it is not possible to cross this flooded stream due to its force. We arrived to the Kedarnath caves, these caves are full with cold water and there is a huge “Shivaling” in the middle of it. Many devotees and kid were taking bath there, some of them were circling Shivaling, walking in knee deep ice cold water. Folks believe that, this water has medicinal effect on many diseases. Maruti informed me that, fortunately there is plenty of water on Harishchandragad, even during summer there is no scarcity.
Now it was time to leave. It had been a very hectic, short trek, there were still lot many places to be seen, like, Taramati peak, and Citadel etc. but time was limited. I made a point, to come back again to see remaining places and experience the wonderful charm of this mystic mountain. I was looking for someone to accompany me for Pachanai trail. Again, Maruti came to my help, he arranged a guide, for me, a young, 15years boy Bharat who was returning to Pachanai. I was fortunate to meet person like Maruti who was so helpful to me, leaving his business aside was following me like a shadow. It was really emotional to leave them. After exchanging telephone numbers, assuring to meet again and paying his fees, heavy heartedly said goodbye to them.
On our way we visited “ Doli chi Ghumati”, a small temple, where an idol of legendary King Harishchandra is kept. From this temple we turned left and followed the north ward bound prominent trail to Pachanai village. Descend from the plateau was easy and very much used by folks. En route, we met many of them carrying variety of goods to sell at Harishchandragad for festival. Each time we met, they gleefully greeted us with “Ram…Ram”. We quickly covered half of the distance and arrived at the a place, where in rainy days, river Mangal Ganga jumps from a vertical rock face forming a beautiful waterfall. But now most of the river bed was dry and there were only few shallow ponds with some accumulated water. We decided to take a halt for snacks. Bharat was very enthusiastic young man provided me with all possible information about the mountains around, and told me stories about how over enthusiastic trekkers lost their way in thicket previously and how folks rescued them etc. He liked my snacks, Thepalas which I brought. While we were taking our breakfast, a cute, furry female dog appeared from nowhere to join us. Bharat was quick to make friendship with her. We offered her some biscuits and played with her. Latter, when we started our trek, she kept following us till Pachanai, most of the time happily playing with Bharat!
We reached Pachanai village, a small sleepy hamlet, at 10am, weather was still cool and pleasant. My bus was expected to arrive at 11am, so I spent some time moving around the village and also had a cup of tea at Bharat’s house. At last bus arrived, little late than normal. Interestingly I noticed that, an arrival of ST bus in this remote village is like a special event. For Pachanai this bus is the only link to the out side world so people anxiously wait for it. When it arrived, news spread and people gathered there. I noticed they treat driver and conductor as dignitaries!
Bus was almost packed. I got window seat. People were still coming and driver and conductors were trying to accommodate every one of them as they don't have any other alternative transport to the nearest town, Rajur. At last engine roared, I looked out of the window to wave good bye to Bharat. He was standing there, smiling broadly and waving a hand to me. Now he was not alone, to my surprise, he was with that cute little dog sporting a new neck belt and chain which he was holding proudly. I realized, now she was a pet of Bharat, here onwards, food and shelter assured... but lost freedom! Bus gathered a good speed heading towards Rajur, Pachanai slipped out of sight. I was still thinking of that poor dog, with some uncomfortable feelings. Suddenly I got startled and came out of those thought by an unexpected sound of ring tone emitting from my mobile and reminding me of my arrival to the civilized world…or “Lost freedom?”
Visit my picasa web album for trek pictures:
http://picasaweb.google.com/ashokum/TREKHARISHCHANDRAGAD#
